Since opening the Central Saint Martins graduating show in 2008, Mary Katrantzou has taken the fashion world by storm. The Greek-born designer, who initially studied architecture at the Rhode Island School of Design but soon transferred to CSM to study textile design, is widely recognised for her bold and adventurous use of colour, print and silhouette.
The designer’s CSM graduate collection was themed around trompe l’oeil prints of jewellery, a concept she explored further in her S2011 collection, as described here by Tim Blanks:
“A pelmet created a portrait neckline above a print of a window frame; swaths of chiffon fluttered like curtains; mini-crinis echoed lampshades with dangling pendants of crystal. Wall sconces were reconfigured as necklaces (but they were too literally heavy for the airiness of the clothes they accompanied).”
(2010, http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2011RTW-MKATRANTZOU)
The image above shows an outfit from Katrantzou’s AW11 collection and features in ‘Chapter 3: Colour and Fabrics’ of Fashion Design: The complete guide. From afar, Katrantzou’s AW11 collection, which can be seen here in full, is an opulent collage of ornate patterns and vivid colours. Close up, the collection is even more exquisite, consisiting of a huge range of intricate floral patterns, prints of detailed cornices and watercolour landscape scenes. And perhaps most appealing of all is the the fact that the outfits are extremely wearable, making the designer a huge commercial success.
Katrantzou’s S2012 collection can be seen here and click here to see an interview with the designer backstage at her London show.
Fashion Design: The complete guide, by John Hopkins, is an essential guide to the dynamic world of fashion design. Aimed at fashion students and anyone interested in fashion design, this book covers the historical and theoretical background of fashion, before taking a more practical look at more advanced approaches to fashion drawing, working with colour media and computer-aided design. It also examines the research process, how to work with sketchbooks and how to build a collection, from pattern to prototype.
Fashion Design is beautifully designed and is packed with inspiring runway images and fashion illustrations. Interviews with leading practitioners, including Lauretta Roberts (Creative Director at WGSN Boutique), Damian Shaw (Merchandising Director at McQ at Alexander McQueen) and fashion blogger Marcella L (http://www.fashiondistraction.com/), each provide a valuable insight into the fashion industry.
John Hopkins worked as a womenswear designer at Jaeger and Burberry for over ten years. His teaching career began in the United States, where he served as chair of Fashion at Savannah College of Art and Design, before taking up his current position as head of Fashion and Textiles at Winchester School of Art, UK.
